A Ritual of Presence in Zemun and a Belgrade Sunset
The second day in Belgrade was also remarkably engaging, rich in sensory and spiritual experiences.
Gaia suggested a trip to Zemun. It feels like an old district of Belgrade, with several charming streets lined with aged townhouses, some still cobblestoned. Furthermore, Zemun is situated on a hill, at the highest point of which stands a historic tower that naturally elevates the viewpoint, offering a magnificent vantage over the Danube.Unexpectedly, I sat down in the shade on the sun-warmed stones and admired the beauty of the broad Danube moving slowly in its calm expanse. I practised mindfulness, resting in the present moment, but I also carried out a few other rituals. I sat there, listening to the voices of people coming and going, completely in a world of my own.
Two Pillars of Belgrade
1. Zemun and the Gardoš Tower (Kula Milenijum)
Zemun possesses a completely different soul and architecture from central Belgrade, rooted in its distinct history. Until 1918, it was a separate town situated on the border of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, whereas Belgrade, across the river, lay within the Ottoman Empire. This explains its unique character: narrow streets, Baroque detailing, cobblestone pavements, and the ambience of a historic Pannonian town.
The Gardoš hill forms the heart of Zemun's old quarter. In 1896, atop the ruins of an ancient medieval fortress, the Hungarians erected the Millennium Tower (known today as the Gardoš Tower or Janos Hunyadi Tower) to mark the 1000th anniversary of Hungarian settlement in the Pannonian Basin. Standing 36 metres tall—a blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Byzantine styles—it perches on the edge of the loess hill, opening up an absolute panorama over the wide bend of the Danube and the distant rooftops of Belgrade.
2. Kalemegdan, the Fortress, and the Victor Monument (Pobednik)
The strategic hill at the confluence of two great rivers—the Sava and the Danube—was inhabited as early as Celtic times (the Scordisci named it Singidun) and was later transformed into the Roman military camp of Singidunum. Kalemegdan Hill (from the Turkish kale, meaning fortress, and megdan, meaning battlefield) has witnessed over 115 battles across the centuries and has been destroyed more than 44 times.
On its most prominent headland, directly overlooking the merging waters of the Sava and the Danube, stands the Pobednik (The Victor)—a monument crafted by the renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović, unveiled in 1928 to commemorate the breakthrough of the Salonika Front and victory in World War I. Notably, the statue was originally intended to stand in Terazije Square in the city centre; however, following puritanical protests regarding the male figure's nudity, it was placed on the edge of the fortress, its sword and falcon turned towards the former imperial borders.
Rituals from the Gardoš Tower
While the world around me bustled at its own pace, I sat on the warm stone at the foot of the tower and conducted three practices of presence:
The River Current Ritual: Gazing down at the majestic, broad ribbon of the Danube flowing below, I closed my eyes and tuned into the river breeze. With a deep exhalation, I imagined entrusting all past matters, exertions, and phases of recent weeks to the river's current. I allowed them to drift downstream, creating a clean, light space within myself for whatever lies ahead.
The Balkan Stone and Fire Ritual: I placed my palm against the sun-baked wall of the ancient fortress. I felt the solid, unyielding stability beneath me and the intense warmth pouring from above. I focused entirely on the physical sensation of presence at this exact coordinate and moment in time, expressing gratitude to my body for the journey it has travelled and for the strength it carries for the stages ahead.
The Two Shores Ritual: I shifted my gaze back and forth between the immediate, historic rooftops of Zemun and the vast, open horizon of river and greenery on the opposite side. I integrated these two qualities within myself—the grounded structure of everyday life and a spacious readiness for an unconstrained journey ahead.
The evening was planned around experiencing the sunset from the hill where the Pobednik monument stands. The sunset over the two rivers—the Sava and the Danube—offered an extraordinary setting. The sun’s disc shimmered in a spectrum of colours, surrounded by an expanding red glow. I imagined this setting sun drawing away the last remnants of my energetic blockages.
Later, as twilight settled, the entire sweeping area, filled with people watching the setting sun, gained an even greater beauty. The evening remained very warm, with the concrete paving giving off the heat accumulated throughout the hot day.
And so passed these two warm days planned for Belgrade. My morning sightseeing helped, to some degree, limit prolonged exposure to the intense heat. Now, the way was clear for a longer stay in the mountains—in Lisina, beneath Kopaonik.
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Ginkgo and Gaia
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