A Luminous Sea Voyage, Pine Aromas, and the Spiritual Peak of Büyükada
The Princes' Islands, known in Turkish simply as Adalar, are an extraordinary archipelago of nine islands scattered across the south-eastern part of the Sea of Marmara, just a dozen or so kilometres from the bustle of mainland Istanbul.
The total surface area of this area is around 15 square kilometres. Of the nine islands, four are large and permanently inhabited: Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada. A fifth, Sedef Adası, is partially inhabited, whilst the remaining four – Yassıada, Sivriada, Kaşık Adası, and Tavşan Adası – are very small and have no permanent residents. The largest island of the entire archipelago is the monumental Büyükada, covering approximately 5.4 square kilometres, whereas the smallest of those officially inhabited is the intimate Kınalıada.The sea route from the port of Kabataş to Büyükada is a true celebration of travel and being on the water. The ferry glides majestically across the waves, stopping along the way at the ports of three successive islands: first calling at the shores of Kınalıada, then pausing at the small island of Burgazada, before pulling into forest-scented Heybeliada, until finally reaching its destination port on Büyükada. The views extending from the deck between the various islands are remarkably dynamic and full of vivid charm. The islands continually present themselves from different distances and angles – at one moment their gentle, green profiles are visible against the blue of the sea, and the next, historic mansions and small quays emerge from behind the waves. The panorama shifts with every minute of the voyage, building a deep sense of harmony.
Büyükada proved to be a place that held me for several beautiful, rewarding hours. Immediately upon stepping off the ferry, I was enchanted by the island's centre – surrounded by historic architecture, the streets hummed with a gentle vitality, overlooked by a charming, modest clock tower that forms the heart of this space. One of the most extraordinary features of this location is the complete absence of private combustion-engine motor traffic, creating a striking contrast to the metropolis of several million people. The only means of transport here are electric vehicles and bicycles.
To explore the island fully, feel its openness, and gain total freedom, I hired a bicycle and set off on a ride around the whole of Büyükada. Along the way, I admired breathtaking, intricately carved Ottoman wooden mansions, known as yalı, including the famous, historic building of the former Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage. Indeed, this island has a long tradition as a retreat for seclusion and quietude – in Byzantine and Ottoman times, kings, clerics, and thinkers were sent here into exile, and in later years, Leon Trotsky, amongst others, resided here.
By bicycle, I also headed upwards towards the island's highest peak, where the historic Christian Church of St George (Aya Yorgi) stands. The road led through magnificent, dense forest woodlands. The lush, vibrant green made a deep impression on me, and the dominant variety of Calabrian pine (Pinus brutia) filled the air with a rich, resinous note. Walking along the path ascending towards the church, I passed tree branches bound with hundreds of colourful threads and ribbons, which wayfarers traditionally leave here as symbols of their wishes and intentions.
During this forest route, I enjoyed some exceptional micro-delights of nature. I sampled the ripe, sweet-sour fruits of the wild strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo), which grows here completely naturally. I also came across remarkably aromatic wild flowers from the mint family. As I passed right beside them, their deep, beautiful fragrance drifted distinctly through the air. I gathered a small supply of these blossoms for my own tea and am now quietly drying them in the apartment, bringing the island's aromas into my living space.
From the summit by the church, a truly moving, sweeping panorama opens up over the Sea of Marmara and the outline of distant Istanbul. The Princes' Islands enjoy immense, seemingly boundless popularity among both the inhabitants of the metropolis and visitors from around the world, and Büyükada itself is the true crown of this archipelago. Excellent transport connections mean that ferries run constantly – practically every hour, from early morning until late evening – allowing complete freedom to acclimatise to this extraordinary place.
Ginkgo and Gaia
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